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Welcome to zx6e.net's Frequently Asked Questions section. This page is intended to give you all of the information needed before posting any questions in the forums related specifically to the zx6e motorcycle. Please read this IN FULL before posting questions about your bike. If it is not covered here, or if you don't quite understand, then feel free to post.

Ok, lets get one thing out of the way. First off, besides a few subtle changes in colors and a few internal mechanical revisions (very few), the Kawasaki ZX6-E made from 1993 to 2004 (us models) are THE SAME. All plastics and other nonessential parts WILL FIT, no question about it. There are only a few specific changes that are noted in the MODEL YEAR LIST. Please reference that as well as this faq.

Also please be advised, This site is NOT affiliated in any way with Kawasaki . It is a non profit, un-official communications site between owners of the Kawasaki ZX600-E motorcycle. We do not sell or endorse any products by Kawasaki or any other manufacturer of OEM or Aftermarket parts.

Q)"What is the purpose of this faq?"

The purpose is to inform you of the basic concepts and answers to common questions and problems. Also to keep admins sane by hopefully helping to avoid the same questions over and over on the forums. And to get people pointed in the right direction on some common issues.

It is not intended to provide comprehensive or complete information on topics, but rather to provide a base of where to start looking to get the information being questioned. So keep that in mind when referring to this faq.

For specific questions regarding use of this site and the forums, please check out Forums section located at the bottom of this document.

Sections:

Aftermarket(parts and accesories) - What is available and where?
General General questions
Maintenance Maintenance schedules and recommendations.
Mechanical Common problems and how to address them.
Performance Want to go fast?
Forums, how to use the forums


Aftermarket

Q) "What aftermarket exhausts are available? And can I still keep dual exhaust?"

Many aftermarket exhaust systems are available for the zx6e. They are available in common 4 into 1 full replacement high performance systems, or in slip-on versions that just replace both mufflers on either side, retaining the stock dual setup. Many companies offer systems of both or either style including:
    Full system:
  • Muzzys
  • D&D
  • Vance and Hines
  • Hindle
  • Yoshimira (possibly discontinued)
  • Other companies in Europe that we don't know for sure
    Slip-ons:
  • Yoshimira (again, possibly discontinued)
  • Cobra (F1)
  • Kerker
  • Jardine
It's best just to search around the forums and web to find these products and their best prices. Although there is currently a decently priced group buy on Muzzys full system going on right now.

Q) "What setup or system is best for (me, performance, weight, looks)?"

Unfortunately, many of these variables are subjective. If you prefer the look of dual exhaust and don't care much about ultimate performance and weight savings, then go with slip-ons. Generally they are slightly less expensive and can even in rare cases, run well without any jetting modifications to adjust fuel ratio to suit them.

Also available is full 4 into 1 exhaust like you may see on most other sportbikes out there. Advantages are often lighter weight, higher flow at high rpm for optimum performance. They of course tend to be more expensive but are worth the investment if you want the most out of your E. Jetting is required of course and fine tuning for accurate fuel ratio can be a bit tricky, but more on that later. Please reference the performance section of this faq for further discussion.

Q) "What windshields are available for my zx6e?"

There are actually a decent number of shields available. Lockhart Phillips is a company with several different styles. Those include SR series (stock replacement) available in many colors and tintings, the DB or double bubble series. Probably available in several colors as well, at least several levels of 'smoke' or tinted options. Also there is the ST or Sport Touring option, which is a much longer and more vertical shield offering great wind protection. Is available in several levels of tinted shades as well as clear for sure. You may also want to search for user ZGOUTLET on ebay, which sells many 'imperfect' models that didn't make the cut, at discount rates, or check out their site zgoutlet.com. Another manufacturer that reportedly has several options is Targa, although I don't have any exact info on it currently. Also Givi, a company well known for it's hard touring luggage and racks, as a touring style shield available as well. A pic can be found HERE.

Q) "What bodywork is out there, and what does it look like?"

This is a good question. Theres always been a small amount of bodywork available, but the companies producing them never seem to have pictures of them. Thanks to the internet, some pics have started to show up of these pieces installed, we'll try to point you in the right direction if we have anywhere to direct you.

Skarkskinz - One company that has long produced aftermarket bodywork for the E. Link contains pictures even!

There are a few others producing pieces, like one piece lowers, race uppers and such, but they escape me at the moment, check back later

PLEASE NOTE - Many of these aftermarket panels require modifications for mounting, and lighting if intended for street use. Keep that in mind when selecting parts.

Q) "Aren't there any rear tire huggers available?"

In fact, there are. There are several manufacturers overseas that supply ones made specifically for the E or ZZR as it is commonly known everywhere else. I do not have a comprehensive list, One I've found for sure is N.W.S. but info can be found in several threads, including THIS ONE about a group buy of Skidmarx brand huggers.

Q) "Ok, so what about undertails and fender eliminators then?"

There really aren't any undertails or pans like you'd find on other bikes. Possibly in part that there is actually a very large area underneath the tail section and much of that is taken up during normal suspension travel by the rear tire. Although crafty member "zxe" has molded one himself for this Highly Modified E.

On the other side of things, another popular mod is to remove the bulky rear fender. There are several kits available to do this, but most users opt to just cut the stock plastic one. A great thread documenting this can be found HERE. Kits include Competition Werkz. A thread of one installed exists.

Q) "Is there a solo seat or tail?"

So you're looking to ditch the pillion and go for that racy look. I'm with you.

Theres a couple options. You can use a sharksinz race tail which replaces the entire rearend and isn't exactly a direct bolt on. Or you can go with a cowl that is placed over the seat. One example that we have found is made by Pyramid plastics. User Jen600 has well documented hers here in THIS THREAD. Link on where to find them lies within the thread.

Q) "This stock seat is horrible? Where can I find a replacement?"

Very good question. The only manufactuer we know for sure, and is well documented, is of course Corbin Available in two styles, Gunfighter (pic in link) and Gunfighter + lady which has a more contoured passenger section. There is also an optional passenger backrest. For even more comfort, proceed to the next question:

Q) "Is there any way to raise the bars?"

Indeed there is. Using the stock bars, you can puchase bar risers made by Gen Mar and can be found HERE. There are probably several other sources, but this is nominal price and easy to obtain. I bought mine there myself.

There is also the option of fitting dirtbike style bars using a 'streetfighter' conversion kit like the LSL unit found HERE. Pricy and will likely require some rerouting of wires and cables if not replacement. But it is an option.


General Questions

This section is intended for any random questions that may come up that don't fit into other areas

Q) "Will parts from (insert other bike) fit or bolt onto my zx6e?"

Ahh, swapping in parts from other bikes as a cheap repair or modification. The eternal quest for better pieces of kit that might enhance your E. Well heres some things that have been known to work, anything else is up for grabs. Buy it and try it!

turbo huyabusa direct bolt in! :P Kidding of course... But got your attention eh?

Actually there are a number of parts that are a direct bolt on or require little modification. Here are some examples:

2004 GSXR1000/SV1000 OEM mirrors. Don't be fooled by aftermarket goodies that claim to fit all years gsxr1000 and such, for some reason they just aren't angled right and are basically unusable although they will bolt up. Look for 2004 OEM take-offs and factory replacements to assure proper fit.

2004 CBR1000 (RR) mirrors While this might require a little opening up of the holes for the mirror mount, and your own bolts (get the stock ones from the cbr maybe?) this can be done, and from appearances in recent install pics, actually sit better than the gixxer mirrors. Those not afraid of a little metal grinding and are disastified with the stock mirrors, might want to look into this. This is one where it seems to be acceptable to get the aftermarket replacements from companies like Emgo, which seem to fit fine. This has been discussed much in THIS THREAD.

GSXR 1000 6 piston calipers. Several years but mostly found on 1000's. Easily idenfiable by gold color and Tokico branding. Some GSXR1300 calipers are gold Tokico calipers but will not bolt up. They are similar to the zrx, zx9r, etc. 6 piston calipers. The GSXR1000 calipers through 2002 model year are the only ones that work, so pay attention. Only requires retapped mounting holes and washers to offset caliper placement to center over rotor. For more info start with THIS THREAD. Also another site has a GREAT WRITEUP about mounting them to a 750, the methods are the same but they give exact specs to make spacers to allow use of 8mm bolts that actually fit the caliper as is. But you can retap the holes to 10mm and use stock bolts as well, but you may need longer ones when using a washer to offset caliper to be centered on rotor, that's unsure to me right now.

ZZR1200 rear shock. This is near a direct bolt, but you must also use the 1200's pivot bracket at the bottom. Using the 12 links will drastically lower the rear end. Using the stock E links will have you lowered by about an inch. The increased performance is worth it. For more info, start here with THIS THREAD. Also new condition shocks with all necessary parts can be purchased from zzr1200parts.com for around $125 shipped.

95-97 ZX6R (ZX600F) front fender. This mod is almost a direct bolt on. You can mount it as is using only 2 bolts, or it's been noted that you can swap over the steel mounting structure inside with one from the E fender and mount with all 4 bolts. I imagine that just leaves the two outer screws unused. Used ones can be found on ebay, or other kawasaki sites. Dennis Kirk sells aftermarket unpainted race intended fenders for the 6r model and can be found HERE. If link dies, just look for 95 6r fender made my Cheetah Racing. It should run about 100 dollars.

ZX6R swingarm 95-97 zx6r-F has been noted to be almost the same exact dimensions as the E swingarm. However there are some differences, like how the brake torque arm mounts and such. A good swap might be to get the entire rear section including brakes, sprocket/cush drive, and wheel to assure a proper fit. Keep in mind that it is a 525 chain stock, so you may need a new front sprocket as well. This should lose some weight if that's what you're after, or have damaged parts and can't find replacements. It could be modified to work with stock E components, but you're on your own with mixing and matching parts like spacers, bearings and axles to make it work.

98-99 zx6r-G is also an option that may interest those looking to actually upgrade for use of wider wheels and tires. Again, may be simpler to get everything together including wheels, brakes, and everything. It's been noted that a zx7r wheel of the same generation may be a better fit due to it's 530 chain cush drive setup, but some different bearings will need to be sourced. I don't recall all the specifics, so it's best to start with Muzzy of ZZR-Internationals writeup on doing the swap, and go from there. You can find that info RIGHT HERE. Intended for the hardcore modder, but it's a really cool mod.

It is not currently known IF ANY other engine bolts directly into the frame of the zx6e, so don't ask. As many will point out, anythings possible, especially with welder in hand, but there has been nothing documented to date.

more to come I'm sure... (like 6r wheels and stuff like that) But rest assured, if it isn't listed here, we probably don't know about it yet.

Q) "What size tires will fit and what kind should I buy?"

Long debated and forever argued. But lets take each part of that one at a time:

First lets go by what's on there stock. 120-60-17 on the front, and 160-60-17 on the rear. This doesn't seem to vary on any year E, only sometime in the early 2k's did they switch from poor Michelins to the slightly better Bridgestone Battlaxe (at least I think I got that right). Although sizes remained constant.

Ok so then what 'fits'? 120-70-17 will fit on the front in 90% of cases. Only a few have complained of rubbing fenders but I would assume it's tire specific. Some may just have a taller carcass and overall diameter despite having the same profile rating. A thread documenting fender modifications in these cases is located HERE. As was mentioned, this is a rather rare case as most tires fit fine. The benefit is a more neutral turn in on cornering. The 60 profile tires tend to make the bike feel like it falls into corners. The 70 feels more like you push it or coax it into the corner. Many riders find this more comforting.

As for the rear, that springs to life much arguement. But here are the facts, a 170 WILL FIT. It has even been mentioned of a 180 being shoved on, but this is not recommended. Anyways, to put the 170 dilemna in perspective. The zx6e only has a 5" wide rear rim. Rubber is flexible. When fitting a larger tire to a skinnier wheel, the tire will pinch and can drastically alter the profile of the tire, and greatly affect handling. Not to say you shouldn't do it, but just be aware of the factors involved in doing so. I ran one for many years without much notice, but results will vary from tire to tire based on static profile, compound, and construction. Most riders prefer the neutral feel of a properly contoured 160, so it is recommended to stick to that size. There really doesn't seem to be any actual benefit other than possibly availabilty of sizes.

So onto the second half of that question. Simple answer: Who knows? Noone can say what tire is best for you or your situation and preferences. There are plenty of threads with discussions on brands and models with reviews and user feedback. Feel free to look around and use the search function choosing 'any date'. Theres just too many to list. Please search before asking about a specific tire to see if it's already been discussed.


Maintenance

Q)"Huh?

Change your oil dummy


Mechanical

Q)"What's up with second gear? Is every year affected? What are the symptoms, how much does it cost? etc... etc... etc...

Umm, I need to come back to this one. This will require an article in and of itself...

Ok, for now, reference THIS THREAD to get you started, it should also contain ample descriptions of the symptoms as well.


Performance

Q)"What can I/should I do to make my E fast/wheelie/better etc...?"

Theres a bunch of things you can do to get a bit more oomf. let's try to cover a few.

Exhaust - Changing out the exhaust is a great way to let your motor expel all them hyrdocarbons and NOx gases a little more efficiently, and more importantly lose a little weight. As with the exhaust questions mentioned previously, it's up to you what you want to go with, slip-ons, full system, what brand etc. Given the racing heritage and long running relationship with Kawasaki and it's racing program, Muzzys full system is arguably one of, if not the best choices judging by owners feedback, and best value to maximize performance and lose the most weight. But theres plenty of options and we're not trying to tell you what to buy. (well maybe just a little)

Carb Jetting - With changing exhaust you'll need to change the air/fuel ratio to compensate for the better flowing exhaust. You'll hear people talk about their bike running fine, or it's not needed, or whatever other gobblety-gook, but ignore them. If you want your bike to run properly and maximize performance, you will need to make adjustments. There are several kits to do this that will at least get you close and within acceptable limits of performance and optimal fuel/air ratios. They include kits from Dynojet, and Factory. Which you will choose is up to you. Many techs will argue as to which kit is easier to install and tune, but both are adequate and leave little arguement as to their ability to properly tune your engine, ignoring the process of course. We're talking final result. You'll need to reference your kits installation instructions, potentially their tech support, and other tuning and performance resources as to how to tune it and what will work for your setup. It's near impossible to just 'tell you how' here, so we're not going to even try.

Ignition Advancer - A controversial mod. The aim is to advance your timing to maximize horsepower across the entire rev range, which can in some cases optimize timing especially in the higher rpms. Specifics for your bike can and will vary, and as with any mod proper tuning on a dyno will maximize your results. It's very common to just slap in a +4 advancer and run with it. This seems to at least offer a little gain on the butt dyno in most cases, and considering how cheap the part is, it never hurts to run one. Advancements beyond 4 degrees are not recommended without knowledge and skill to properly tune on a dyno, reports of 6 degrees have been reported but are rare and an extreme case. Several companies make static replacement rotors including V&H, Factory, and I believe Muzzys still might sell an adjustable model.

Air Filters - As usual a common topic is air filters. There are two common units available. One by K&N of course, and another by UNI. The K&N unit is what you would expect. A ribbed oiled paper design and rather expensive. The UNI unit is a two layer oiled foam unit similiar to stock, it appears more porous which should increase airflow. It is cleanable and can be re-oiled, but are very inexpensive and are often just replaced instead. As usual it is your preference, as there doesn't seem to be any performance difference, but the UNI appears to be the best value at least.

WARNING: it has been realized that the K&N is not designed to work with CALI SPEC E's. The difference is in the airbox lid which has an indentation on the front right so that some emmisions controls may fit. This area portrudes into the filter area and requires a square hole in the filter itself. The stock unit of course will be designed as such, and the UNI filter comes with the appropriate section slightly perforated already so it can be easily removed, or left in for 49 state models.

Part 2 of the air filters... Some may remember some bikes that benefited from individual air filters per carb. What is often referred to as a stage 3 setup. While many bikes DO benefit from this setup, this is not recommened for the E. The stock airbox setup is engineered specifically. Modifying this in any way will hinder performance, at least at higher speeds when the ram air is in effect. There are exceptions where owners may wish to modify the airbox setup, like making a streetfighter, or other specific applications. But for optimum performance, you can't do better than the unmolested stock ram air setup.


Forums

Q)"Why can't I post images? It says something about improper file type, but it's a jpg!"

I wish I knew the answer to this. But it appears this is only in a few rare cases. Something to do with the browser or whatever is creating the image. The file information inside the file is either not getting passed to the forum by the browser, or it is formed in such a way that it does not recognize it. In either case, you may want to try saving it into another format like png or other suitable compressed format, or try uploading to an outside free pictures host and then linking to that instead of attaching images. Believe me, if I new the reason or could fix it, I would.

Q)"What other rules should I be concerned with and where can I find that information?"

Well theres not really any hardset 'rules' around here, but there are some guidelines and things we like to expect from users.

Don't be a dick! Seriously. Just don't be an ass, and don't personally attack another user. It will not be tolerated. You'll find that everyone here is pretty mature (ok, well, most everyone :). So just play nice and we'll all get along just fine.

Images. Since the beginning, there has been imaging guidelines linked at the top left of the forums. Although it always gets overlooked, please re-read this section and familiarize yourself with it.
PM'ing Troll Some things to think about when PM'ing me about things.

Acceptable Reporting problems with the site or a user. Asking specific questions about your account. Umm, maybe a few other things I'm forgetting.

Unacceptable Technical questions, especially about the E. While I maintain and admin this site, I don't know everything, that's why I started it! I wanted a resource for people to share info and to aquire info I didn't have. I certainly don't remember it all, I constantly have to refer back to the forums myself to find things. So you can do so also. I will ignore specific E questions PM'd directly to me. Even if it's a question about something I posted I did, reply to the post, not to PM. Your question is valuable to everyone who may have the same issue. This should go for everyone really. Specific questions should remain on the forums, not in PM.

Familiarize yourself with the layout. Each pertainable topic should be able to fit into one of the many sections available here. So please keep that in mind when making new topics. Is it in the right section? Does this really fit here? Does it not fit anywhere? Then make a comment in the Suggestion Box section of the forums. But it's likely it should fit in somewhere. Nothing annoys the admins and moderators more than having to move topics constantly :) Also please note the available links at the top. They are there for your use and information. Like the link to this faq! and links to other articles, rules, help, search, and other info that are available to enhance your experience here. I've tried my best to retain a layout that is user friendly, easy on the eyes, and useful. But it takes the effort of at least having a look around before jumping in head first and asking questions that are rather obvious.

A few other notes. Keep in mind that this site has always been aimed at the sharing of knowledge, ideas, and communications between folks who own specifically the 1993-2004(US) model zx6e. Some other members own other bikes, or may have knowledge of other models, but don't expect or demand general motorcycle knowledge, you're unlikely to get it and be rather frustrated.

And in line with that, We're not here to teach you how to ride. While many users may be quick to add their experiences or references when it comes to riding in general, that is not our purporse and claim no responsibility for you or your motorcycle. There are a number of organizations that can help you and put you in touch with most of the skills necessary to stay alive long enough to enjoy yourself, like MSF, or a quick google search will also lead you to many other places to have a look.

Q)"How can I tell what are new posts and what is an easy way to read them?" Well theres a couple ways to do that. The way I prefer is to take note of a few things.

First, when you first log in, through the magic of cookies, your browser should identify what new posts exist in each section, with a green icon. No new posts will show a faded blue icon. As pictured:
Second, once you click on the section name, you will be presented with a list of the posts. Those with new posts will have a blue icon with an arrow pointing down. Clicking on this icon will automatically bring you to the newest post (most of the time, cookies can be weird). This simplifies the process of having to dig throught the entire thread to find what you've read or not. Once you get into the habit of doing it this way, you'll never miss a post! Good stuff.
Then once all posts in each section have been read, you can either index that section again making sure there are no more blue icons, or if you are in the main forum view, and still have the green icon indicating new posts but you know you've read them all, you can click the green icon, it will now be faded blue indacting you've read all posts.

Another option is to use the My Assistant link at the top right of the page, this will give you the option of viewing all new posts since your last visit. Personally I don't like it, but some users may find it useful. I find it to be a bit unreliable with cookies.

Q)"Why do people reply angrily to search or read the faq?"

Probably because you didn't read this before posting. Seriously. There are many topics that have been posted so many times we've lost count. Most of those are listed here in this faq or can be found easily by using the search. Having to answer the same question repeatedly can get annoying. Most of the users are not pricks, but sometimes their patience can be tested, as well as the admins and moderators. Many people have gone to great lengths to write-up and explain many of the topics brought up constantly, and may be frustrated when it is often overlooked by premature clicking of the New Topic button. With over 40,000 posts, it's likely it's been discussed at one time or another. Just make sure to try to search several ways for a given topic. And be tactful in your queries, and do some of the footwork yourself. Theres a great site called google.com that can answer many questions that are not E specific that are asked often. So in closing, please excuse our knee jerk reactions, sometimes we overlook the fact that not everyone knows everything. Enjoy the site.

Thanks again to everyone who offered suggestions and information contained in this faq. If anything is found to be incomplete, incorrect or plain explained poorly, please let us know in THIS THREAD.
The writing on the wall
2010-09-05 20:21:59<Akiva1080>now come down to socal and see what real roads are
2010-09-05 21:17:49<Superchicken>What is this Akiva, a child-friendly wall? lol\
2010-09-06 00:09:14<osuuma>Dave, that sounds very familiar to me. Something to do with Lardy. His parents still hate me.
2010-09-06 04:28:50<pengaru>I fail to see what GSXR first bike has to do with his crashing due to target fixation/loss of concentration, could have happened on anything.
2010-09-06 10:22:26<osuuma>Yeah, but he binned a GSXR, not some POS rat bike. Thats the problem. :)
2010-09-06 11:16:18<pengaru>yeah the financial factor is significant, but personally id rather potentially die on a nice machine than something budget/ratty
2010-09-06 11:16:46<pengaru>not that a gsxr is what I'd chose to fulfill those requirements ;)
2010-09-06 11:32:20<Akiva1080>i guess it'd only matter to me which bike if i wanted to be stuffed and mounted
2010-09-06 13:41:27<osuuma>True Pengy. If you're gonna go, go in style.
2010-09-06 14:56:51<Massive>:yawn Dying on a nice machine is so easy and trite.

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